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When did lingerie become such big business? Actually, it has been a major focus of the clothing and fashion industry long before the lingerie store existed. It has been important since fashion and trade as unifying cultural forces were born in the Middle Ages. Which is quite a bit later than people started wearing underwear, or things which resembled what we would recognize as underwear – that could be as early as 3000 B.C.E.

But the kind of business lingerie has been has varied depending on the social climate. And more obviously than most types of commerce because underwear is the most powerful indicator we have of the social and cultural mores of a society. And the economic-social relationship works both ways – lingerie has arguably become more comfortable and appealing to women as they gained the economic power to start buying it for themselves from the mid 20th century onwards. In this view, it is no accident that it was this period which saw the gradual disappearance of the corset/girdle/garter and the rise of the less constraining bra and brief sets we are familiar with now. Be that as it may, there has never been greater choice in lingerie stores than now. Underwear is as important as outerwear.

Where to shop? It depends on your price range and what you want to achieve. If you’re looking for workaday lingerie which you don’t need to think too carefully about when you’re stumbling into it at 7am before a hard day at the office, there are plenty department stores on both sides of the Atlantic which will sell you pretty underwear at reasonable prices. In America, try Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, Macy’s, Famous Barr, Dillards or Barney’s (for more expensive kit).

Then there are the boutiques – London has loads of them, particularly scattered around Notting Hill, and such is the popularity of lingerie now that there will be a few in every major city in Europe and the US. Paris is the home of the lingerie boutique, of course – Rue Cambon is one place to go. And there are the chains, of course – British high street stores are all focusing on lingerie these days while in America there’s the queen of semi-cheapo underwear, Victoria’s Secret. If you want something saucy, try Agent Provocateur, Myla or Coco de Mer for high-end risqué wear, or Ann Summers (British) and Frederick of Hollywood (American) for something slightly kitschier but just as fun.

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