Engagement ring settings - classic, channel, cluster and more

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An engagement ring is composed of two parts, a diamond and a setting. Choosing the right ring setting is as important as choosing the right diamond.The setting must do two important things. Firstly it must hold the diamond securely, and secondly it must allow enough light to pass through the diamond.The choice of setting is really a matter of taste but the most common and popular setting styles are outlined below along with brief descriptions, and their advantages and disadvantages.

CLASSIC SETTING

The classic setting is sometimes referred to as the prong or claw setting, or the Tiffany ring. There are generally four or six prongs, which are normally made of platinum, the strongest metal. The simplicity of this setting means that the main focus of the ring is the diamond, making it the most popular setting for a solitaire diamond ring. It is also very good at holding the diamond securely as the prongs extend upwards and outwards bending over the diamond. It also lifts the stone higher than other settings, allowing maximum light to pass through it.

Advantages
Shows diamond's brilliance to its fullest
Holds diamond securely
Less expensive than most other styles
Diamond is easy to clean

Disadvantages
Offers less protection to the stone
Prongs can get caught in hair and clothing  

CHANNEL SETTING

This setting has a channel running around the ring which is filled with small round diamonds set up against each other with no metal between them. This technique will protect a diamond from wear and tear as the edges are not exposed. It is sometimes used on the shoulders of engagement rings, but is mostly used for wedding bands.

Advantages
Completely smooth surface
Edges of diamond are well-protected

Disadvantages
Resizing of a ring is difficult if the stones are set all the way round

BEZEL SETTING

This is where the diamond is surrounded by a bezel, or a collar, of precious metal and is attached to the top of the ring. Bezels can have straight edges or rounded edges. This is a very popular setting and is similar to the flush setting in that it protects the diamond well. Unfortunately, the nature of its design means that a substantial part of the diamond is hidden, but modern alternatives like the half bezel have recently been introduced to overcome this drawback.

Advantages
Excellent protection for diamonds
Can be adapted to fit any shape of stone
A white bezel will make the diamond appear larger

Disadvantages
Significant part of a diamond is covered
A yellow bezel will make a diamond appear more yellow
Relatively expensive

BAR SETTING

This technique is similar to channel setting. Diamonds are held in place with thin, circular metal bars.

Advantages
Can hold a wide range of diamonds

Disadvantages
Diamonds are more likely to loosen or get chipped

CLUSTER SETTING

The purpose of this setting is to create a large ring from a number of smaller stones. The ring is typically multi-level, set with one large central diamond which is surrounded by a number of smaller stones. The ring sits high up on the finger.

Advantages
Smaller diamonds are used which can make this a more affordable option

Disadvantages
The high setting means it can get caught in hair and clothing

PAVÉ SETTING

A simple process is used here to give the effect of lots of tiny diamonds covering the ring's surface. This is achieved by drilling small holes into the ring shank. Diamonds are then skilfully set with tiny grains of white metal and placed so that that they fill as much space as possible without actually touching one another. This has the effect of making the ring look like it is completely covered in diamonds.

Advantages
Makes the stones look bigger than they really are
Greater choice of designs

Disadvantages
Surface of the ring is not as smooth and level as other settings
Relatively expensive
Stones may get damaged over time

TENSION SETTING 

This relatively modern design involves the diamond being held in place by the pressure of the metal. Platinum is usually used due to its superior strength and resilience.

Advantages
Allows light to shine through the entire diamond
Creates an interesting, unique look

Disadvantages
Often only available for smaller diamonds

ILLUSION SETTING

Here, the diamond is placed into a highly polished plate of gold or platinum which acts like a mirror and makes the stone seem bigger than it actually is.

Advantages
Makes the diamond appear larger
Enhances a diamond's sparkle
Smooth surface, without sharp edges

Disadvantages
A complicated and expensive setting
Stones may loosen over time
Difficult to repair

FLAT-TOP SETTING

This setting is similar to the flush setting, but involves a different method of fitting the stone. The diamond is positioned into a hole in the flat, top portion of the ring, and is held in place by metal beads attached to the side of it.

Advantages
Good protection for the diamond
Smooth surface, without sharp edges

Disadvantages
Relatively expensive

© The Pink Fridge Online Magazine 2008 - Engagement Ring Settings

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