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Along with rosé wines in general pink champagne has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years and its popularity looks set to grow. What this indicates about the current consumer mood is anyone’s guess; fin de siecle hedonism and new millennium high spirits have both been pinpointed as causes. Whatever the reasons for this surge in sales pink champagne is being marketed as a pleasant pick-you-up and classy alternative to traditional and therefore ‘boring’alternatives. Personally I blame Sex and the City.
Champagne producers are fortunate that the strict regulations that govern the normal production of rosés in France are more relaxed when applied to champagne. Normally rosés must be made by delicate pressing of black grapes to give the resulting white wine a hint of colour. Although some champagne producers still favour this method it is more expensive, time-consuming and variable.
Luckily they’re allowed to cut corners and pink champagnes be made by mixing white and red wines until the desired tint is achieved. This is easier and allows champagne producers to blend different grape varieties and vintages to create the desired end product. The colour can range from an off-white to iridescent pink and depends largely on the producer’s preferred shade. It can be further adjusted by an extra squirt of red wine in the final dosage added to the champagne before bottling.
Fans of pink champagne believe that this extra use of black grapes gives the resulting wine a more full-bodied flavour and allows it to complement a wider range of dishes than its more popular paler sibling. Prices vary and you won’t find a surprising amount of variety but there are plenty of surprisingly good bottles of pink fizz about at reasonable prices.
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