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Whilst it may be possible to buy Chablis from California or a South African Merlot you won’t be purchasing champagne that comes from anywhere else but northern France. This is testimony to the success with which champagne producers or champenois have guarded their exclusive hold over the ‘champagne’ label. As the traditional process of making champagne in France is both time-consuming and costly this has meant that cheap champagne has been hard to get hold of. The general maxim that ‘if it’s cheap it ain’t champagne’ still holds true today.

However there have been challengers to champagne’s crown. The best known is probably Cava. In 1872 the Spanish successfully challenged the French monopoly on sparkling wines after years of experimenting with native grapes and methods of processing them. The perseverance of a certain Josep Raventos paid off when he produced 3000 bottles of sparking wine that year and ‘Spanish Champagne’ soon became a popular drink in Spain. In 1970 the European Union banned all sparkling wines not from the Champagne region in France from labelling their product as such and so the term Cava (which means cellar in Catalan) became prevalent.

The popularity of Cava paved for the way for plenty of other foreign producers to try their hand at sparkling wine and today you can buy varieties from the USA, South Africa and Australia. These wines are made using the ‘Methode Champenois’ and as foreign producers have become more sophisticated the finished product has come to taste very similar. French champagne producers are understandably anxious to protect their product from being undermined by imitators and still argue that their product is superior to competitors.

They believe that the unique nature of the Champagne region’s soil and climate combined with centuries of historic expertise creates a unique product. It is an argument that has largely been accepted and champagne still retains its cachet with the consumer. Those looking for cheap genuine champagne you will have to buy in bulk or motor round the vineyards and hope to pick up a bargain by haggling with one of the local producers. Otherwise you can nip down to your local supermarket and pick up a bottle of Cava and pretend it’s the real thing.

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